Verbier, Switzerland

Verbier has a deserved reputation for offering some of the most challenging off-piste skiing in the world and attracts some of the world’s best skiers and boarders to capitalise on it.

But it’s incorrect to think Verbier is just about the off piste when it comes to skiing, there’s plenty of terrain for all ability levels and tastes, including excellent nursery slopes for complete beginners.

To make the most of the full extent of The 4 Valleys area pass, good intermediate level skiing is generally required as the links between the sectors is normally on quite tricky red runs, they’re not generally the easy links that are common at similar multi—resort areas in France for example.

In terms of gentler skiing the runs close to Verbier and at Savoleyres/Tzournaz are likely to offer the most appeal. Better skiers will want to explore the 4 Valleys, perhaps spending at least a day in the Thyon and Veysonnaz sector, then more time at Nendaz.

Experts may first be bemused by the apparent small number of black graded runs at the resort, this is because some years ago many former blacks pistes were re-graded as yellow ‘off piste itineraries’, becoming marked, but no longer groomed runs.  Off piste fans will want to heard right off the map however and hire a qualified mountain guide to get in to Verbier’s famous backcountry.

Finally, freestyle fans should head up to La Chaux where there’s a great terrain park.

Verbier has very well laid out and equipped areas for both adult and beginners, as well as a choice of ski schools, some British run. Les Moulins near the resort centre features a creche and children’s learning area; Les Esserts, a little further out, is more suitable for adult beginners and has a magic carpet and button lift.

Once you have mastered the basics at Les Moulins and Les Esserts you are ready to head to Le Rouge, which is a little further up toward the top end of town, where many of the luxury ski chalets are located.

Whether it’s the ideal choice for a first ski holiday is more open to debate and personal taste – some might prefer a smaller, more intimate destination in which to learn, others will be happy to dive in and start as they mean to go on – learning their trade in one of the world’s best resorts.

In terms of available childcare, the local ‘Le Moulin’ creche accepts children from three months old, and the various ski schools will teach children from age four in private or group classes.  A number of British-run nanny-agencies can provide a nanny for your children in resort, day and/or evening, and the tourist office can provide a list of approved babysitters as well. Some other agencies offer academic tutoring in resort for your children during your holiday.

Verbier has a reputation for its lively apres ski scene and quite refreshingly feels much more  upmarket than other resorts, with a great international crowd.

Popular venues from about 3pm onwards include The Mont Fort (pubmontfort.com), which counts itself as one of the village’s original bars, established for more than 40 years, and The Farinet (hotelfarinet.com) which gets very busy most days by the time the lifts close with live music and table dancing (of the ski booted variety).  

La Rouge has a popular apres ski spot ‘La Luge’ on its upper level with great DJs, drinks menu and a sunny terrace (complete with wind protection screens) to enjoy it all on.  Look out for the wooden giraffes. There are plenty more bars to choose from. Later on the legendary Farm Club is another resort institution – the place to see and be seen for nearly five decades now.  The African-themed Casbah is the late night dancing alternative.